Search our siteAdd this thread to a FAQ. Log in or Sign up. I have my mast down re-doing the lights, I'm looking for guidance on the best type of mast electrical connector to use The boat is an '81 Hunter 33, deck stepped mast with the wires connected internally and ace tren trenbolone down into the compression post. There's conneftor mechanism to lock the connection, so I don't feel real good mast electrical connector it - what are other options? Joined Jun 6, 6, postslikes Hunter Bill RoosaApr 3,
mast electrical connector
Add this thread to a FAQ. Log in or Sign up. I have my mast down re-doing the lights, I'm looking for guidance on the best type of connector to use The boat is an '81 Hunter 33, deck stepped mast with the wires connected internally and then down into the compression post.
There's no mechanism to lock the connection, so I don't feel real good about it - what are other options? Joined Jun 6, 6, posts , likes Hunter Bill Roosa , Apr 3, Terminal blocks are a great way to make connections. I use these to get to the terminal blocks and have had no troubles at all with the mast connections since went this route. I just did this I just did this with my '79 H33 a year or two ago.
Terminal strips are a great idea, but I took it a step further with a waterproof junction box on the deck and one on the mast. I used "trailer light" plugs to connect the two boxes. If you have a masthead antenna like so many of us, this would also be a good time to inspect and think about replacing that cable too.
I upgraded to a "beefier" cable which meant rerunning though the cabin to the radio, but well worth the trouble. Steve Olson , Apr 10, The trailer plugs are easy but prone to problems. With buss bars you can use standard crimp fittings and screw them fast. I have eliminated the plug type fittings all over my boat.
Mast light circuits usually fail at the deck plugs. Housing them in a water proof box is a step in the right direction but bringing the connections below the deck and using buss bars is an even better solution. I also eliminated the trailer type plugs in the engine wiring harness. They are hard to keep clean and are a fairly common source of voltage drop.
Taking the connections below deck also makes for a very clean look, Steve. For my mast wiring, I use the Blue Sea clams to to through the deck. The beauty of these is that you can leave the terminal fittings on the wires to feed them through and they will still seal around the wire casing.
My boat has a deck stepped mast with a teak access plate in the liner right under the mast. That is where I put the terminal block for all the mast lights. I mounted the block with velcro, so it is easier to get at when I want to mess with the connections. If it should come lose there is nothing but non conducting material in there so all would be well but it has stayed in place very well. For the radar I ran the mast wire a bit further to have it exit near the bulkhead in the head, where I mounted a metal box to provide shielding.
Those radar wires are tiny. The box also provides strain relief for the connections. By running all of these wires below deck the, the connections are never exposed to the elements. It also makes for a very clean look, both above and below deck, Steve. Steve Olson , Apr 12, Allan , Apr 12, You should always have some form of connection break inside the mast at the base. Otherwise, with direct runs you would need to cut the wires to take down the mast, which would probably lead to having too short of wire length when you go to reconnet the wires.
Those clams aren't tall enough to prevent the collection of moisture inside the mast from overflowing them through the gaps between the wires they are meant to contain if the weep holes ever get plugged up with debris. Make sure yours is.
Re-read Allan's advice and would say that it is a good alternative to connections made inside the mast itself. Dan Johnson , Apr 12, That's some mighty fat wire to run up a mast. The calculations would dispute this, but a simple light on the mast should require no more than a 16 ga. With LED's even smaller.. Chris Patterson , Apr 13, The outer sheeth is very thick as well.
Apex , Apr 13, Whenever I run any wires on the boat I try to leave a loop, or two, of extra wire, neatly tied up and out of sight. This gives me enough wire to cut off the connectors and redo the ends, several times. If you are going to make continuous wire runs at least leave enough extra wire so you could easily install some sort of connectors should, or rather when, you need to take the mast down.
The clams seal tight and are best used with wire that has a round jacket. I have three of them at the base of the mast. You can also put in a blank plug to seal them if your mast comes down for winter stowage. I do have some exposed wires below deck on my boat. They are run in nice straight bundles and very well tied. I feel that access is far more important than not having any visible wires. I have been able to tuck most of the wiring away but have some exposed at the mast base and the radio.
Neatness counts with wiring, Steve. I'm really hoping never to have to take my mast down again. I plan on having the boat for about another ten years, and I'm redoing all the standing rigging and all wiring now, so hopefully this will be it. I will leave extra wire loops hidden somewhere just in case I do need to take it down someday unexpectedly.
Steve Olson , Apr 13, Or be kind to the next owner. This also applies to bedding with Just because it will not effect you doesn't mean the next guy will not have to deal with it, Steve. You must log in or sign up to reply here. FixClip holds laundry, tools, anything to rails and life lines even in strong winds.
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